Click and Collect now available


ICE Trikes


Police Registry

All adult bikes purchased from us are added to a national police database


Bike Fit

 Like a tailor modifies your suit, We can fit your bike

Why do I need a bike fit?

Are you looking for a more comfortable position? Want to achieve that aggressive racers stance? Suffering from aches and pains?

Our bike fitting is designed with you in mind, we look at your past, your present and your future ambitions to help you find the right sizing and position on the bike to achieve your goals .


What does a bike fit involve?


  1. The Interview

    We sit down with you and discuss your previous riding experience, how long have you been riding and what sort of riding do you enjoy? We then move on to your current riding, do you suffer and aches or pains, what is it that brought you in for a bike fit? Finally we look at your ambitions, from completing an Ironman to simply riding 10 miles on a Saturday morning. We can work out how best to fit you to your bike.

  2. Physical Assessment

    Flexibility and natural posture are the keys to our fitting process. Your fitter will assess your range of motion in key areas, they will also observe how you naturally stand and support yourself. These details will allow them to assess areas that may need compensation on the bike and what positions will be achievable.

  3. On Bike Assessment

    Having assessed your flexibility, its time to get on the bike. We will take all the measurements from your current bike and translate these on to our Precision Fit Jig. This allows us to make small changes effortlessly, from bar width to crank length. We can adjust your position piece by piece until we have achieved the optimum fit. Combined with motion capture technology so both you and your fitter can see how each change is affecting your riding.

  4. Recording and Translation

    Your bike will then be set up for you according to your new dimensions, should you need new parts these will be discussed with you. You will also receive a full record of your fit results to apply to any other bikes you may have at home, or to use in future fits.




What do I need to bring to my fit?

When you come in for your fit we would ask that you bring

  1.  Your current bike (or Bikes) that you would like us to fit you to
  2. A pair of cycle shorts
  3. The shoes that you wear on the bike.

We will take the pedals from your current bike to use on the jig.

It may also be worth bringing a water bottle.


When can I book a bike fit?

We open up bookings for fits around one month in advance, this lets us tailor the staff rota to ensure there will always be a qualified member of staff to look after you. If you would like to book a fit further in advance then please do get in touch with us directly and we can arrange something with you.

We only offer Fitting services on weekdays.


How long will my fit take?

All endeavour to start all of our fits at 10am to ensure that we will never be rushed.


How do I book a bike fit?

Simply click the link below and fill out the form. We will be in touch to confirm your fitting.




The ” M check “

Interested in making sure your bike is safe to ride?

Watch the video on our YouTube channel on how to perform your very own m check!

Comment with any questions you have, or come into the shop and chat to us!

We offer a huge range of bicycle maintenance products, so there are no excuses for a poorly maintained bike! Park Tools – FinishLine – MucOff – Tf2

Click here for the link to our YouTube M check video!








Image result for trek precision fitBike-Fit

After many years of experience our staff have acquired the knowledge to acurately predict the correct size of bike to suit your requirements. Having said that, if you want do some fine tuning and get the most out of your new road bike then it’s well worth getting a professional Bike-Fit and for only £120 you can do just that.

Here at Saddle Safari, our fully qualified Bike-Fit specialists will take you through a step by step process to insure that your riding position and bike set up is perfectly adjusted to provide maximum performance.

To book your Bike-Fit call us now on 01628 477020 or Email  (Please Note: we are unable to accommodate Sat/Sun bookings due to time and space restrictions.)

To help you understand a little more about bike fitting and why it so important, we’ve listed below answers to some of the more common questions that we get asked.


Q: What is a bike fit?

A: In the same way that a good tailor will take a series of measurements and make adjustments to ensure that your new suit fits as well as possible, a bike fit allows a qualified professional to look at you on your bike and then also make a series of adjustments to ensure that you are getting the most out of your ride.

Q: Why should I have a bike fit?

A: Whether you’re looking for ride comfort, pure performance or to reduce stress around a weak area such as a lower back, an expert bike fitting will ensure that you’re getting the best out of your bike, and yourself, every time you ride.

Q: What if I just want to get fitted to my existing road bike?

A: That’s absolutely fine. Just give us a call, let us know what bike you have and what you’re looking to achieve i.e. more comfort or better performance and we’ll book you in for a fitting with one of our qualified experts.

Q: What types of bike is suitable for a bike fit?

A: Our bike fit service currently caters for road bikes only (This excludes MTB’s/ Tri-bikes/ Hybrids).

Q: What should I bring with me on the day?

A: Along with your bike, bring with you what you ordinarily wear on a ride. A pair of lycra bike shorts and SPD style shoes (if you use them) is usually fine.

Q: How long will my bike fit take?

A: An average bike fit takes between two to three hours to complete.

Q: How much does a bike fit cost?

A: The fitting costs £120 along with any additional parts that may be required (Please note that all appointments must be booked in advance.)

Q: What days of the week can I do my bikefit?

A: Monday to Friday/9AM – 3PM (the average 3pm appointment will be finished around 5:00- 5:30PM)

Q: How do I book my appointment?

A: Please contact Mark or Dan at Saddle Safari on 01628 477020 or Email info@saddlesafari for further information.

Image result for trek precision fit


Choosing the right size

A guide to choosing the right sized bike

So you’ve decided which new bike to buy, now all you need to do is select the right frame size. Insuring that you choose the correct size is one of the most important things when buying a new bike. A correctly sized bike will be more comfortable, more efficient and generally more enjoyable to ride.

Choosing the right size can be a confusing experience when you’re first starting out. The correct size frame all depends on your height and reach, the type of bike you’re looking at and how you intend to use it. To help you choose the right size bike we have provided a suggested height for the various frame sizes available.

We would like to point out that this is only a rough guide. Ideally we would recommend that you visit our shop first to be sized correctly as there will always be variables in sizing between different people, brands and models. If you are at all unsure on what your best option is, please don’t hesitate to give us a call on 01628 477020 and one of our friendly staff will be more than happy to help.


How bike frames are measured

With the exception of childrens bikes which are measured by wheel diameter, the large majority of bikes are measured from the centre of the bottom bracket (at the crank bolt) to the top of the seat tube where the seatpost is inserted. You will find that most bikes are measured in inches although traditionally road bikes get measured in centimetres. The size indicated by the seat tube will give you a good idea of stand over height. As this height increases you will also find that the top tube (cross bar) becomes longer. This will increase your reach from the saddle to the handlebars effectively changing your posture.


Stand over height

Stand over height is the clearance between the top of the top tube and the bottom of your crotch. It’s important that you have adequate clearance in this area to avoid contact when you’ve stopped and astride the bike. For road and hybrid bikes 1 to 2 inches of clearance is required, mountain bikes require 2 to 4 inches. If you have a short or long inside leg measurement in relation to your height, don’t panic! Adjustments can be made to the bike to compensate this. Again we would recommend visiting the shop first as this will make the whole process a lot easier.

Mountain bike sizing chart (hardtail & full suspension)

Rider Height Frame Size Suggested
Feet and Inches Centimetres Inches Size
4′ 10″ – 5′ 2″ 148 – 158 13 – 14 XS
5′ 2″ – 5 ‘6″ 158 – 168 15 – 16 S
5′ ‘6″ – 5’ 10″ 168 – 178 17 – 18 M
5′ 10″ – 6′ 1″ 178 – 185 19 – 20 L
6′ 1″ – 6′ 4″ 185 – 193 21 – 22 XL
6 ‘4″ – 6’ 6″ 193 – 198 23 – 24 XXL

Women’s mountain bike sizing chart (hardtail & full suspension)

Rider Height Frame Size Suggested
Feet and Inches Centimetres Inches Size
4′ 10″ – 5′ 2″ 148 – 158 13 – 14 XS
5′ 2″ – 5 ‘6″ 158 – 168 15 – 16 S
5′ 6″ – 5′ 10″ 168 – 178 17 – 18 M
5′ 10″ – 6′ 1″ 178 – 185 19+ L

Road bike sizing chart

Rider Height Frame Size Suggested
Feet and Inches Centimetres Centimetres Size
4′ 10″ – 5 ‘0″ 148 – 152 47 – 48 XXS
5′ 0 “- 5′ 3” 152 – 160 49 – 50 XS
5′ 3″ – 5′ 6″ 160 – 168 51 – 52 – 53 S
5 6″ – 5′ 9″ 168 – 175 54 – 55 M
5′ 9″ – 6′ 0″ 175 – 183 56 – 57 – 58 L
6′ 0″ – 6′ 3″ 183 – 191 58 – 59 – 60 XL
6′ 3″ – 6′ 6″ 191 – 198 61 – 62 – 63 XXL

Women’s road bike sizing chart

Rider Height Frame Size Suggested
Feet and Inches Centimetres Centimetres Size
4′ 10″ – 5′ 1″ 147 – 155 44 – 45 – 46 XXS
5′ 1″ – 5′ 3″ 155 – 160 47 – 48 – 49 XS
5′ 3″ – 5′ 5″ 160 – 165 50 – 51 – 52 S
5′ 5″ – 5′ 8″ 165 – 172 53 – 54 – 55 M
5′ 8″ – 5′ 10″ 172 – 180 56 – 57 L

Hybrid bike sizing chart

Rider Height Frame Size Suggested
Feet and Inches Centimetres Inches Size Centimetres
4′ 10″ – 5′ 1″ 147 – 155 13 – 14 XS 47 – 49
5′ 1″ – 5′ 5″ 155 – 165 15 – 16 S 50 – 52
5′ 5″ – 5′ 9″ 165 – 175 17 – 18 M 53 – 54
5′ 9″ – 6′ 0″ 175 – 183 19 -20 L 55 – 57
6′ 0″ – 6′ 3″ 183 – 191 21 – 22 XL 58 – 61
6′ 3″ – 6′ 6″ 191 – 198 23 – 25 XXL 61 – 63

Children’s bike sizing chart

Rider Age or Height Size Suggested
Age Feet and Inches Centimetres  
2 – 5 years 2′ 10″ – 3′ 7″ 85 – 110 Runner bikes
2 – 4 years 2′ 10″ – 3′ 4″ 85 – 100 12 inch wheel diameter
3 – 5 years 3′ 1″ – 3′ 7″ 95 – 110 14 inch wheel diameter
5 – 7 years 3′ 7″ – 4′ 0″ 110 – 120 16 inch wheel diameter
7 – 9 years 4′ 0″ – 4′ 5″ 120 – 135 20 inch wheel diameter
9 – 11 years 4′ 5″ – 4′ 9″ 135 – 145 24 inch wheel diameter
11+ years 4′ 9″+ 145+ 26 inch wheel diameter

Folding bike sizing

As a general rule folding bikes are one size fits all catering for people from heights of 4′ 10″ – 6′ 4″ (148cm – 193cm).


Buying Advice


At Saddle Safari we feel strongly about giving our customers the best cycling experience possible, at the same time we understand that not everyone wants to spend the earth on a new bike and not everyone will be riding down mountains or entering the Tour de France! We also understand what it takes to make a good or bad bike.

Unfortunately there seems to be a growing number of low quality bikes flooding the UK market, with the majority coming from mail order catalogues and car accessory retailers. At first glance many of these bikes may look like a bargain, with beefy looking frames, low price tags and all the latest gizmos. But as with everything in life there is always a catch.

The reality of it is that the large majority of these bikes are extremely heavy and very quickly find themselves in and out of the workshop on a regular basis, or just rusting away at the back of a shed. This is usually down to the budget parts and components used to add WOW factor in the show room. If it looks to good to be true then it usually is!

There is a saying in the cycle industry, STRONG / CHEAP / LIGHT, Chose two, lose one! This basically implies that due to material and production costs, you can’t have all three factors together in one bike.

Below are some guide lines that should hopefully help you make the right choice when choosing your next bike whether it’s for you or your family.


1: QUALITY FRAME, SIMPLE DESIGN i.e. Avoid cheap rear suspension as it is heavy and problematic, you will quickly regret your purchase. Look for light weight well made frames with a good solid construction, ideally made from aluminium, good quality steel or carbon fiber on high-end bikes.

On the left we have a well thought out £250 hardtail mountain bike using mostly aluminium parts, a strong rigid aluminum frame with a lifetime warranty and a simple yet good quality set of suspension forks, making it a light, reliable bike giving the rider peace of mind and little to go wrong.

On the left is a £99, budget, full suspension catalogue bike,this time relying on poorly designed steel parts with fussy pivots and weighty, uncontrollable coil sprung suspension. This makes the bike hard work to ride and feel like a pogo stick on wheels!

2: SUSPENSION: Always try to look for reputable suspension brands such as Fox, Rockshox, ect. Avoid front suspension Bikes under £200 and rear suspension bikes under £700. Although they may look like good value the cheaper equipment tends to be poorly designed and has a very short life span.

Aside from being weak, low quality moving parts and pivots will increase the weight dramatically and function poorly whilst giving endless trouble (with scarcely available replacement parts) also the other components can suffer as a result.

These cheaper bikes will give you false understanding of the benefits of suspension and how it can improve you riding. It’s a sure fire way of putting you off cycling.

Above is a quality full suspension mountain bike using a mix of aluminium, stainless steel and magnesium parts. It has strong pivot points with a lifetime warranted frame and air controlled suspension, making it a light, reliable bike with plenty of rider adjustment. It will instill confidence and help you build upon your riding skills.


For a good reliable gear system expect to see names like Shimano and Sram. They are reliable and easily maintained. Both companies will have a range of components which will increase in quality and performance as the bikes value increase. High-end hybrid and mountain bikes can have up to 27 gears where as road bikes can have up to 30. As a rough rule of thumb try to steer clear of adults bikes with fewer than 21 gears (unless it is a specialists bike or uses a hub gear). The further up the ranges you go the more durable and lighter the gears will be which in turn will prolong the life of you bike.

Below is a great example of the contrast between a poor quality, non branded rear derailleur and a well designed, high end, Shimano rear derailleur. The Shimano (XTR) derailleur uses strong, light weight materials with powerful springs and precision bearings for a smooth, fast and positive indexed gear change even in the mud. On the other hand, the cheap derailleur consists of week springs with a heavy steel body and no bearings at all. These have a tendency to rust rapidly, offer a sluggish unpredictable gear shift and can fail mid ride with little warning. They also suffer heavily in bad conditions.


4: COMPONENTS: Look for branded components e.g. Rockshox,Bontrager, Avid, Shimano, ect. Branded parts ensure quality design and correct function.


Ensure brake levers and calipers are made of metal and not plastic. Plastic brakes are poor quality and will not provide an easy action or strong braking. If you’re considering using disc brakes then you have the choice of Hydraulic (using oil) or cable operated brakes. Both offer better braking in poor weather conditions compared to a standard rim brake. The hydraulics tend to have a lot more power and are self adjusting where as cable discs need a bit more maintenance and adjustment.In terms of other parts such as handle bars, cranks, saddles and similar components then you have a whole world of choice. Once again, the higher your budget, the stronger, lighter and ultimately better performing the parts will become.



On the left we have a cheap and heavy, plastic covered chainset. On the right is a better quality, lighter aluminium version. This will easily out perform the cheaper setup in every way possible.

5: BRANDS: Try to avoid brands associated with large multipurpose mail order companies, car manufacturers and general sports wear brands. Most of these bikes will have been made as promotional items or money spinners rather than designed for proper cycling.


Reputable cycling brands such as Trek, Ridgeback, Specialized, Giant, Dawes and Gary Fisher spend a lot of time researching and developing bikes specifically for there intended purpose. They take into account the comfort, style, biomechanics and size of many different riders to gauge what is required in the bikes that they produce.

6: LOOK FOR CORRECT SIZE: Don’t just assume that the first bike you see is going to be ok. Even if you’re not intend to do a lot of cycling it’s still worth looking for the size of bike that best fits.


Taking height and reach into account is essential not just for comfort but also for handling. Buying a bike that is too big or too small will make it harder to control and can create future problems with your back, neck and knees as well as causing numb arms and hands. This can knock your confidence, increase the chances of crashing and ultimately put you off cycling all together.

It helps to be fitted correctly when buying a new bike. Our experienced sales staff will be able to guide you through the fitting process quickly and easily taking in to account your arm length, leg length, height, body position and weight distribution. These factors may vary depending on age (I.e. growing teenagers) and the style of bike you’re looking at. If you are unsure and intend to purchase from us online please don’t hesitate to call along with any other queries on 01628 477020.


Is Your Bike Safe?

A Safe Bike

Keeping your bike in tip-top condition improves not only its safety but also its performance.See our checklist below to ensure that your bicycle is safe and in proper working order: If you are at all worried pop the bike in to us to check out.

Brakes:Squeeze each brake lever in turn to ensure they apply enough pressure to lock the wheel and stop your bike. To ensure a smooth and controlled stop your brakes should start activating as soon as you pull the lever. Pulling halfway toward the handle bars before getting traction is a signal to tighten the brake cable.

Brake pads shouldn’t be worn right down, especially if you are setting out on a hilly journey. This applies on both V-brake and disc brake systems.

Brake pads should only connect with the rims of the wheel when activated. Rubber locks to rubber, so pads touching the tyre cause damage and lead to unexpectedly sharp stops and potential accidents.

Check for frayed or stretched cables, which will be less effective and may slip.

 Bikes with hydraulic disc brakes should be maintained at the correct pressure. Insure no oil ever comes in contact with ether the rotor or the brake pads and make sure that a visible amount of braking material is left on the pads. Check manufacturer’s instructions for more information.


For maximum performance and longevity of life chains should be rust free, well cleaned and re-lubricated as often as possible using a chain bath and a good quality lube. Insure that you toughly degrees and remove any old oil. When mixed with dust, mud and grit it will act as a grinding paste dramatically speeding up any wear on your gears and increasing the chances of snapping your chain.It’s worth visiting a qualified cycle mechanic to get your chain length measured for wear and stretch at least once a year. Even the most expensive of chains will stretch but if caught early enough and replaced, it will increase the life of the rest of your gear system and save you a lot of money in the long run.

Derailleur gears:

Tuning gears can be tricky if your not familiar with how they work, be aware that if any of the small screws are sticking out more than others then this is usually intentional. Screwing them in can result in a loss of useable gears. If you don’t know what you’re doing then leave it to a trained mechanic.Much like your chain, your gears should be rust free, well cleaned and re-lubricated as often as possible and not clogged up with grime or mud. All gears should be fully operational and should not cause rough shifting or chain slippage. Slipped gears often cause the bike to veer sharply, which is particularly dangerous in traffic. For example when a rider is standing on the pedals when climbing a hill or setting off from traffic lights, a slipped gear may cause the rider to fly over the handle bars resulting in serious injury (I have personally chipped the bone in my knee cap and given myself concussion due to this and that was consider getting off lightly!).If your gears are beginning to slip then this is usually down to either excess wear of the chain and/or cogs, poorly adjusted gears or a bent derailleur or derailleur hanger. Gears can be very venerable to side on impacts so try not to lay your bike down on its drive side (gear side) and be careful when leaning it against other objects. Remember, if you suspect this is happening the worst thing you can do is ignore it.

Frame and forks:Repair any damage and cure any rust where possible. It’s also occasionally worth inspecting for cracks. Although you’re old bike may have some sentimental value, that will soon be forgotten if it snaps when riding down a hill. Remember nothing lasts forever!

Lights and Reflectors:It’ not just important to be seen when cycling in the dark it’s also the law. Road Vehicle Lighting Regulations 1989 (amended in 1994 and 2005) require pedal cycles to have lights and reflectors fitted, clean and working properly, when being ridden on a public road between sunset and sunrise.

Also thanks to the enactment of Statutory Instrument 2005 No. 2559: on 23rd October 2005, it finally became legal to use flashing LED lights on a bicycle as your main source of lighting. This opened the flood gates for manufacturers to produce brighter, higher quality lights with better running times and requiring less power. Having said that, there is still a lot of junk on the market so its always best to try before you buy. As a shop we would strongly recommend Cateye branded lights, they have been used by our staff for many years and not only do they make a good, wide selection of light sets (relevant to all safety standards through out the world), but they also all have the option of being on constantly or flashing and even have reflectors built in.

Nuts and Bolts:If it wasn’t for nuts and bolt then your bike would just be a big pile of bits on the floor! These days most bikes will use Allen key bolts as they tend to be smaller and lighter than conventional Hex bolts, this also allows easy and quick adjustment. It is recommended for you to periodically work your way around the bike and check that everything is correctly secured. Most precision parts will have a recommended torque setting to avoid any damage. If you don’t own a torque wrench then using a bit of common sense will go a long way, just don’t force or over tighten things and if you are at all unsure then feel free to give our workshop a call for advice. Remember to apply a small mount of grease when re-fitting any nuts or bolts and also be aware that some parts of the bike (like the drive side pedal) use a reverse thread which tightens and loosens in the opposite direction to normal.

Saddle Height

Adjusting your seat to the correct position is crucial if you want to avoid causing damage to your knees and hips. Your saddle should be high enough so that your leg almost (but not quite) extends fully at the bottom of each pedal stroke. Riding with the saddle this high allows you to spin the pedal more comfortably and efficiently. A correctly positioned saddle feels a long way off the ground especially when you stop. Don’t worry, you’ll soon learn to balance with your strongest foot perched on one pedal, and the other on tiptoes on the ground.

Check for the correct leg extension by positioning your right hand pedal at the lowest possible point in its rotation, your heel should then be able to touch this pedal with your leg straight (but not locked out) that way, when you position your feet in the classically correct position, with the balls of the feet over the pedal spindle, your knee will be slightly bent.


To adjust your saddle height, loosen the seat clamp (where the seatpost enters the frame) and move the seatpost up or down as necessary. Ensure you do not raise the seatpost above the minimum insertion mark etched on the seatpost otherwise you can stress and damage the bike and yourself. When you are happy with the height, re-tighten the seat clamp.


Before setting out on a long ride check for cracked, gouged or worn rubber which may increase the risk of punctures and eventually lead to tyre failure. Also check tread and tyre edge for stones, glass, thorns and other debris which may work their way in and cause a puncture.

Ensure tyres are properly inflated as recommended on the side of the tyre. This will be referred to as PSI (pound per square inch). Road bikes will usualy run around 100-120psi, Hybrids around 60psi and Mountain bikes can be anywhere between 35-60psi depending on the tyre and terrain they’re being used on. An under-inflated tyre will slow you down, making cycling much harder work than necessary and increase the risk of snakebite (pinch-type) punctures.


Wheels should spin freely. Check that they do not rub against the frame or brake blocks and that they run straight and true. A small amount of side to side wobble is usually an indication of either a loose spoke or a damaged rim. If the wobble is much bigger, preventing the wheel from rotating altogether then avoid riding the bike as its possible for the wheel to suddenly collapse, get it looked at by an experienced cycle mechanic/wheel builder as soon as you can.

Safely and correctly truing wheels requires a lot practice and can be a bit of a fine art. Although it is possible to true and repair them your self at home, it is also extremely easy to make the problem much worse and potentially dangerous. If the rim itself is bent, worn, twisted or resembles a pringle, it is more than likely beyond repair. It’s often more cost effective to replace the whole wheel rather than trying to have it trued or re-built.